How to use onions, garlic, shallots and more

Spring onions can be harvested when their bulbs are as thin as pencils or as plump as apples. When lean, they look like green onions, and in some parts of the country the terms “spring onions” and “green onions” are used interchangeably. But real green onions are actually a separate species.

With a relatively mild flavor and a crisp, juicy texture, spring onions can be used in any recipe in place of regular onions. But they shine raw in salads and flavors, where their mild flavor and crunchy texture are most apparent. Green vegetables, if they are still fresh and pert, can be sliced ​​and used like green onions.

In his book “The taste of country cooking (Knopf, 2006), Chef Edna Lewis dresses a salad of scallions or sliced ​​green onions and the first seasonal lettuce with vinegar seasoned with sugar, salt and pepper but no oil, which ” kept the greens still crisp and crunchy, ”she wrote. .

When alliums are lightly dressed, their flavor shines through, with just enough glorious spice – and absolutely no tears.

Recipes: Creamy Bucatini with Spring Onions and Mint | Roasted carrots with shallots, mozzarella and spicy breadcrumbs | Pan-fried chicken and farro with caramelized leeks

With this rich and creamy pasta dish, sweetened by cooked onions, you want a crunchy and edgy white wine to contrast and refresh. I often recommend the kingdom of Italian dry whites. Why? Because they are so versatile with food, especially a dish like this. Ligurian Vermentino, Soave, Fianos de Campania, Etna Biancos and many more would be delicious. But you don’t have to limit yourself to Italy. A Chablis at village level would be fine, as would an Aligoté from Burgundy. Try a Sancerre or a Grüner Veltliner from Austria. Portugal produces dry, unoaked whites that I wouldn’t hesitate to open. Leaner Chardonnays or West Coast Sauvignon Blancs would also work. Personally, I wouldn’t go for a red, but if you insist, look for something fresh and light. ERIC ASIMOV


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